It seems that everywhere you go in the Galapagos Islands, you see a postcard-perfect view in all directions.

The Galapagos Islands are beautiful (they were even a finalist for the New Seven Wonders of the World!), and white-sand beaches, underwater wonderlands and lush highlands are just part of the package.

The most-photographed of all of these Galapagos postcard views is without a doubt the view from the top of Bartholomew Island.

It is in many ways the quintessential Galapagos photograph: smiling visitors, with the unmistakable Pinnacle Rock and lava formations in the background, all framed against a tranquil Galapagos sea.

For all the attention it gets, Bartholomew is in many ways a relatively small and unassuming island.

A former volcano, it is rocky and dry, its landscape looking more otherworldly than that of many of the other islands.

It does not have much vegetation and the wildlife consists of a few lava lizards and insects in addition to the marine life found along the shore.

But what Bartholomew lacks in wildlife it makes up for in scenery, for at the top of a steep wooden stairway is a magnificent 360 degree view, including the perfect angle from which to take a family photo with Pinnacle Rock and the ocean in the background.  It makes the 30 to 40 minute climb up the stairs worth it!

Pinnacle Rock is a tall, pointed formation just off Bartholomew’s shore, easily recognizable as a Galapagos landmark. Although some say it was formed naturally, others believe that it was formed by the United States Air Force during World War Two, when there was a base on nearby Baltra Island. The pilots used rocky Bartholomew Island as a target for practicing!

Between the lookout point and Pinnacle Rock, the island narrows and there is a good beach on each side.

Most visitor ships take their guests there to snorkel in the shade of Pinnacle Rock, one of the best snorkeling spots in all of the Galapagos Islands.

The underwater landscape at the base of Pinnacle Rock is beautiful and clear, and home to sea lions, sharks, rays, octopi, fish and even a friendly colony of rare Galapagos Penguins!

For many visitors, Bartholomew Island will be their best chance to swim with sea lions and get a good look at the penguins.

Even if you don’t want to snorkel, Bartholomew’s beach is good for swimming or simply taking in some sun.

Keep your eyes on the air: the island is home to many Blue-footed Boobies, and they like to fish in the waters off of Pinnacle Rock. Lucky visitors are treated to an unforgettable show as the birds soar high in the sky only to plummet straight down trying to catch fish to eat.

Bartholomew Island is a memorable part of any ship’s itinerary: but be sure to bring your camera and snorkeling gear!

Visitors to the Galapagos Islands will hear their guides talk about three different types of animals and plants. The terms used to describe them are endemic, native and introduced. What’s the difference?

Endemic animals are only found in Galapagos: the marine iguana is one example. Native animals are found naturally in Galapagos and elsewhere: the Frigatebird is a good example. Introduced species are found in Galapagos because they were brought there by humans, intentionally or accidentally. The goat is an example of an introduced species.

For obvious reasons, it’s the endemic species that people come to see! Here’s the scoop on endemic Galapagos species.

How did endemic species arrive to Galapagos?

Every endemic Galapagos species took a different path to the islands ages ago. Animals such as iguanas, rice rats and tortoises are believed to have come from the South American mainland. The scenario is something like this: In a rough storm, some animals get flooded out of their homes and into a river, where they cling to a fallen tree or some other clump of vegetation. The river washes them out to sea, where they miraculously survive until they wash up on the shores of Galapagos.

On the other hand, birds and bats could, of course, fly to the islands. Larger, flightless animals like sea lions and penguins likely arrived on the islands having drifted away from their homes in storms.

Why are there so many endemic reptiles and so few endemic mammals?

The answer has to do with how hard it is to get to Galapagos. A reptile, like a snake or a lizard, needs much less food and water than a mammal (at least short-term) and is less sensitive to strong sunshine. Because Galapagos is so far away from the mainland, only the most fit species can survive the journey. Once on the island, the reptiles took the environmental niches usually reserved for mammals: giant tortoises are large herbivores because animals like goats and horses do not naturally exist there.

What do endemic species have to do with evolution?

Endemic species are ones that evolved from something else. Take the marine iguana. Ages ago, some South American iguanas were washed out to Galapagos somehow. South American iguanas generally live in trees, eat plants and do not swim unless they have to. Once on the islands, the iguanas came out of the trees, developed the ability to swim and hold their breath and now eat algae.

Another good example is the 13 species of Finch, all of whom descended from a common ancestor. Each finch evolved to fill an available environmental niche on different islands. Similarly, the Galapagos Giant Tortoise evolved uniquely to different islands. Charles Darwin’s careful observation of these species led to his renowned Theory of Evolution.

What are some of the more famous Galapagos endemic species?

The most famous reptiles include the Giant Tortoise and the three iguana species as well as lava lizards and snakes. Special birds include the Galapagos Penguin, Waved Albatross, Galapagos Hawk and Flightless Cormorant. The most famous endemic mammals in the islands are the Galapagos Sea Lions.

Do the endemic species get special treatment?

Endemic species, by their nature, are considered at-risk. Some endemic species, like the Galapagos Petrel or Floreana Mockingbird, have such low numbers that researchers count individuals. The Galapagos Pink Iguana only lives on one volcano on Isabela Island: should that volcano erupt, the population might be wiped out.

Endemic species are therefore protected with a number of programs: sea lions are monitored, penguins and cormorants are counted every year, and hawks are tagged. Scientists and park rangers are doing their best to preserve endemic species so that nationals and visitors alike can continue to enjoy the observation of these fascinating animals.

Many people often wonder:
What kinds of things can I do in the Galapagos Islands without a Naturalist Guide?
The answer is:  lots!

There are a variety of things to do and trips to keep you busy that allow you to soak up the Galapagos wildlife and endless beauty.

Here is one option for an activity on your extra day in the Islands:

A visit to “Las Grietas” on Santa Cruz Island.  Directly translated, “grieta” means crevasse or crack.  Las Grietas is a place to swim in cool ocean water between two tall cliffs, where the earth has opened like a “crack” or “crevasse”.

To get to this amazing place from Puerto Ayora, visitors need to cross to the “otro lado” (the “other side”) in a speed boat taxi (60 cents) from the main dock in front of the park and volley ball courts.

From here, follow the signs to the Finch Bay hotel. With the ocean on your left and the Finch Bay Hotel on your right, continue along a rocky wall to the very end where you will find a path leading off to the right hand side.

From here, you follow a 15 minute trail that starts off sandy and rocky, and winds up crossing over a jagged lava field, through a cactus forest, and up a sandy path once again to the top of Las Grietas.

Wearing closed toes shoes or runners is recommended as the lava is hot and rocks pointy.

Upon arriving to the Grietas, you’ll find some wooden narrow steps that lead down to a jumble of large boulders.  From here, you can climb carefully into the water.   A pair of water proof shoes would be good for swimming here, as the rocks underwater are slippery with algae and the entrance and exit to the water can be tricky.

Local people may often be seen jumping from various levels of the cliff, but this isn’t recommended, as the area where you need to land your jump is quite specific.  Use caution and always check how and where others are jumping from before you take a flying leap!

Although there is not much to see underwater at las Grietas, as it just has small openings for water to filter through, the view is spectacular:  like swimming in a secret cove, in a Jurassic Park scene, or Never Never land!

If you swim to the very end of the first pool, and climb over the rocky division, you come to a second similar swimming channel.  At the end of this cove there is another rocky divider.

On the right hand side, about a meter from the bottom of the ocean floor, there is a small swim-through:  a tunnel about a meter long. With one long breath you can make it through quite easily to the other side, and it makes for some adventurous photos!

Be sure to leave Las Grietas well before sunset, as the trail is not lit and the path is even less well-defined at night.

The westernmost island, or Fernandina (British sailors named it “Narborough” but the Spanish name stuck), is the youngest.

It is named for King Fernando of Spain, the monarch who sponsored Christopher Columbus’ 1492 voyage of discovery. It is also the most volcanically active and several serious eruptions have occurred there, the most recent in 2005.

In February of 1825, Benjamin Morrell, captain of the British whaling ship Tartar, was passing between Fernandina and Isabela when the volcano on Fernandina, known as La Cumbre, erupted: he barely managed to bring his ship to safety.

Tar was melting off the rigging as he fled, finally anchoring some fifty miles away. Some of the crew fainted from the heat and suffocating air.

The Galapagos Islands were formed by a “hot spot,” or a place under the earth’s core that causes the crust above it to form volcanoes.

As the earth’s crust, in this case the Nazca Plate, moves across it a series of volcanoes forms, resulting in a chain of islands more or less in a line. In Galapagos, the Nazca Plate moves from west to east over the hot spot, forming volcanoes (which in turn form islands).

Because of increased volcanic activity and its relative youth, Fernandina is home to less plant life than some of the other islands, including neighboring Isabela, but it is rich in animal life. Most of the plant life consists of thick mangroves along the shoreline, which make an excellent home for shore birds and small fish which are an important link in the ecosystem.

Fernandina and Isabela are home to most of the Galapagos penguin population, and they are commonly spotted on Fernandina’s rocky shores.

The endemic Flightless Cormorant, the only cormorant in the world that cannot fly, is only found on Fernandina, although they do occasionally nest on Isabela.

There was once a variety of Galapagos Giant Tortoises on Fernandina, but it is now extinct. Unlike other extinct species of Galapagos tortoise, the Fernandina subspecies did not die off due to humans: the fossil record indicates that it died off naturally, mostly due to volcanic activity and lack of nesting materials and food.

Fernandina is famous in Galapagos for being the most pristine of the larger islands.

It does 0not suffer from the invasive introduced species that plague the rest of the islands, such as rats, ants, goats and different plants. In fact, there is a species of rice rat on the island that is endemic: on other islands, native rats have been muscled out by more aggressive introduced rat species.

Fernandina is home to a population of Galapagos Land Iguanas. These iguanas make a long journey from the rim of the volcano to the floor of the caldera, where they nest. They are rarely seen by visitors, but can be seen on the National Geographic video “Dragons of Galapagos.”

The only visitor site on Fernandina is Punta Espinoza, a maze of sandy trails through interesting lava flows. It is known for the colony of hundreds of marine iguanas that live there as well as a sea lion nursery, some flightless cormorants and the occasional Galapagos hawk.

There are also several tidal pools, which are home to a specialized ecosystem and occasionally trap a sea turtle or stingray.

The oldest island in the Galapagos is the one furthest to the east, San Cristobal.

“In a few days’ time the Beagle will sail for the Galapagos Islands. I look forward with joy and interest to this, both as being somewhat nearer to England and for the sake of having a good look at an active volcano.”

-Charles Darwin, letter to J.S. Henslow, July 12, 1835.

Darwin got more than he bargained for when he visited the Galapagos Islands. He may have come for the volcanoes, but it would be the unique Galapagos wildlife that would leave a more lasting impression on this English naturalist.

Darwin and the HMS Beagle were in Galapagos during the months of September and October of 1835, and during this time Darwin had the opportunity to explore a handful of islands, collecting Galapagos species for use in his research back home.

These species would eventually be used to illustrate Darwin’s controversial theories, and the Galapagos Islands have had a privileged place in natural history ever since.

Darwin’s Galapagos expedition was, in one sense, not unlike the visits enjoyed by thousands of modern visitors every year.

The Beagle itself was far too large to land, so it cruised around the islands and smaller boats would take Darwin and the other crew members ashore, where they could mingle with the endemic wildlife. Modern ships such as the Cormorant and Ocean Spray follow a similar pattern, sending guests ashore in small, easy to use pangas or dinghy boats.

So where did Darwin go and what did he see?

Here is a description of Darwin’s Galapagos itinerary:

September 15-23, 1835: San Cristobal Island.

On September 15^th land was sighted: it turned out to be Mount Pitt, part of San Cristobal Island.

Darwin first went ashore in Galapagos on September 18^th while the crew captured several San Cristobal giant tortoises for food.

Darwin was intrigued by the tortoises and by the rocky island and the lava that formed it.

He mentioned seeing a few “dull-colored” birds: presumably the famous finches that would later bear his name!

September 24-28: Floreana Island.

Floreana was an Ecuadorian penal colony at the time, managed by an Englishman named Nicholas Lawson.

The Beagle’s crew was allowed to go ashore and on the 25th, Lawson gave them a tour of the colony.

Lawson told Darwin that it was possible to tell from which island a tortoise came merely by looking at its shell.

In his journal, Darwin remarked that the convicts regularly ate tortoises and that whaling ships and pirates often took them: one such ship carried off 700 Floreana tortoises to eat while at sea. By 1846 the race was extinct.

September 28-October 4: Isabela Island.

The Beagle made several stops and Darwin had many chances to go ashore and explore.

He was amazed by the number of “most disgusting, clumsy lizards,” marine iguanas. Darwin correctly deduced that they fed underwater but initially believed they ate fish or other animal life.

Later while on Santiago Island, he would have the chance to dissect one and discovered that they actually eat algae.

October 4 – October 8: Northern Islands: Marchena, Genovesa and Pinta.

During these days, the Beagle tried to get to Pinta Island but was repeatedly foiled by currents and winds.

The Beagle did not anchor at any of these islands and instead decided to head for Santiago Island, as they were running low on water.

October 8 – October 17: Santiago Island:

The Beagle found no water on James and headed back to San Cristobal to resupply.

The ship’s physician, Benjamin Bynoe, Darwin, and each of their servants remained behind. They had a tent and provisions and spent the week exploring and gathering samples.

It would be Darwin’s longest stay on any of the Galapagos Islands.

He collected many specimens, including some fish, snails, several varieties of birds and reptiles and some insects, although he remarked about how few insects were to be had.

It was about this time that Darwin realized that the different islands were home to different species: he had, until then, not been carefully labeling his specimens, as he believed at that time that all of the species lived on all of the islands.

October 17 – October 20: Isabela, Wolf and Darwin Islands.

After picking up Darwin’s party, the Beagle went back to survey the eastern coast of Isabela Island before going to Pinta to pick up another party that had been surveying in one of the smaller boats.

On October 20, they surveyed Wolf and Darwin before setting sail for Tahiti: Darwin did not set foot on Darwin, the island that now bears his name.

A visit to the Galapagos Islands is a trip of a lifetime, the dream of millions who have seen the Galapagos on television or in the IMAX theater.

The fearless animals, the clear blue water, the sandy beaches and the fascinating natural history of Galapagos draw visitors from around the world.

Yet, when they go to book, often they’re dismayed to learn that their Galapagos dream vacation will cost more than they had thought. It’s a common question put to tour agencies around the world:

Why is it so expensive to visit the Galapagos Islands?

There are several answers to that question: here are some of the most important factors in the relatively high cost of a visit to the islands.

They’re Very Remote

This is probably the top factor in the cost of the islands. They’re terribly isolated: they were unknown to mankind before their accidental discovery in 1535.

They weren’t even considered worth settling for another three hundred years or so.

To reach the islands, you need to fly: they are three days by ship from the mainland and in any event there is no passenger service by sea.

The flight from Ecuador is currently about $350 round trip: add in a flight from wherever you are to Quito or Guayaquil and you’re looking at a lot of money just in airfare.

The remoteness of Galapagos does not only affect visitors flying back and forth: many things needed in the islands must be flown or shipped there as well.

The only industries on the islands are tourism, fishing and agriculture: everything else, from electronics to bed linens, from construction materials to silverware must be shipped. It’s expensive, and hotels pass the cost on to visitors.

Galapagos Regulations

The Galapagos Islands are a very special place, and the Ecuadorian government has taken steps to insure they’re protected forever.

This means a cost for visitors, however. The most obvious manifestation of this cost is the $100 park entry fee for visitors, which goes to support the park and conservation efforts.

Also, there is a long list of things that are not permitted in the Galapagos Islands, including several species of fruits and vegetables: it is feared they could take root and spread if brought into the islands. Therefore, many tour operators rely on local produce, which can be more expensive due to high demand and low supply.

Another Galapagos regulation is designed to help the residents of the Islands find work. In Galapagos, you are not allowed to hire someone from abroad or even from mainland Ecuador if there is someone from Galapagos who is qualified to do the work.

Therefore, the whole workforce, including everyone from dishwashers to waiters to crewmen and guides, must be from Galapagos.

Because there are a limited number of islanders looking for work, labor has become quite expensive.

Is it Really so Expensive?

A quick comparison with other “dream vacations” shows that Galapagos is perhaps not as expensive as you may think.

A trip to Antarctica including cruise, hotels and airfare costs at least twice as much as Galapagos.

An African Safari is also expensive: a mid-range accommodation will cost some $400/night, in addition to airfare, park fees, etc.  This is comparable to an elegant cruise ship in Galapagos.

A day of sightseeing, a nice dinner and a decent hotel room in Rome will cost over $100 and may approach the $175/day or so that the most economic of Galapagos cruises cost.

Everyone knows Lonesome George. He’s the last of his kind, the sole surviving member of his species, the only remaining Pinta Island Giant Tortoise.

George is the one who gets on all the Galápagos calendars, t-shirts, post cards and coffee mugs. He’s the one with an enclosure for himself (and his girlfriends) at the Charles Darwin Research Station. But right next to George, in the enclosure reserved for the tortoises from Española, is “Super Diego.”

Super Diego, another Galapagos Giant Tortoise, has traveled more than George, done more to assure the survival of his species and is still going strong at the ripe old age of 130!

The Española Tortoises

Anyone who does a little bit of reading on the subject of Galapagos Giant Tortoises soon learns that the Floreana subspecies is extinct, the Pinta subspecies is only represented by George, and the rest of them are still around.

What some people do not realize is how close a call it was for some of the other species!

The Española tortoises were in critical danger in the 1960’s, when all living Española tortoises, 2 males and 12 females, were brought to the Charles Darwin Research Station for protection.

Diego in San Diego

Meanwhile, the search was on for other Española tortoises worldwide.

It was known that a group of 13 Española tortoises had gone to the San Diego zoo in the 1930’s, and it turned out that one was still alive: Diego.

Diego was sent back to the Galapagos in 1977, where he rejoined his fellow Española tortoises at the Charles Darwin Research Station. Diego had been well cared for at the San Diego zoo, which had actually managed to hatch Galapagos tortoise eggs in 1959.

Papa Diego

Since returning to Galapagos Diego has dedicated himself to the survival of his species. It is estimated that he has about 1,700 children!

Diego and the other Española tortoises have been allowed to breed away from predators and hunters. Many of the young tortoises have been returned to Española, where the tortoise population is thriving once again.

In 1994, descendants of tortoises sent over from Charles Darwin Research Station were discovered on Española Island. Very encouraging news!

As a reward for his services, Diego will be returned to Española Island sometime within the next year.

After nearly a century away, Diego is going home!

The Galapagos Islands are a world-class visitor destination, and the rich and famous are not immune to their attraction!

Many famous guests have come from around the world to see the Galapagos Islands and to enjoy themselves just like any other visitor. The same rules apply to the rich and famous: they can only go ashore on the visitor sites, they must be accompanied by a certified Galapagos naturalist guide, etc.

Here are just a few of the most famous Galapagos visitors!

Thomas de Berlanga

Tomas de Berlanga, Bishop of Panama

How appropriate that the Galapagos’ first visitor should be a celebrity. In 1535, Berlanga was on his way to Peru to put an end to a civil war among the conquistadors when his ship was blown off course.

Thus were the Galapagos Islands first discovered.

William Dampier

The famous pirate and explorer visited Galapagos in 1784.

He was particularly impressed by the tasty tortoises, writing:

“The land-turtle are here so numerous that 5 or 600 men might subsist on them alone for several months without any other sort of provision: they are extraordinary large and fat; and so sweet that no pullet eats more pleasantly.”

Charles Darwin

Herman Melville

Darwin was a young naturalist on board the HMS Beagle when it visited Galapagos in 1835.

Years later, the samples he had collected led him to an epiphany. He realized that the Galapagos Finches, unique to each island, had all evolved from a common ancestor, leading him to develop his Theory of Evolution, and stunning the world.

They’re still naming streets, buildings and more after him in the Galapagos Islands.

Herman Melville

Melville was a young sailor in 1841 when he visited the Galapagos Islands. His greatest work, Moby Dick, was still ten years in his future.

Once he was an established writer, he did a magazine article about Galapagos where he focused on the harshness of the islands:

“Another feature in these isles is their emphatic uninhabitableness… Man and wolf alike disown them. Little but reptile life is here found: tortoises, lizards, immense spiders, snakes, and that strangest anomaly of outlandish nature, the iguana. No voice, no low, no howl is heard–the chief sound of life here is a hiss.”

Richard Gere

Bo Derek

The movie bombshell visited the Galapagos in 2007, where she fell in love with the sea lions.

She was distressed to learn that the playful animals are sometimes used as bait by illegal shark fishermen and has joined with action star Jackie Chan to try and reduce Asia’s appetite for illegal shark fins.

She has even served on the board of the Galapagos conservancy.

Richard Gere

The famous movie star visited Galapagos in 2009 with his family and was so impressed with the islands that he has offered to speak out publicly in support of conservation efforts.

Prince Charles and the Duchess of Cornwall

The heir to the throne of England visited the Galapagos Islands with Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall, in March of 2009.

Chevy Chase

The Prince and Duchess were impressed by the wildlife and the need for conservation efforts.

Chevy Chase, Glenn Close, Leonardo DiCaprio, Daryl Hannah and Edward Norton

These five stars, as well as several others, visited on board the Endeavor in April, 2010 as part of a conservation conference. Leonardo DiCaprio went even further, offering to help preserve Ecuador’s Yasuni Nature reserve. While in Galapagos, they met with Ecuadorian vice-president Lenin Moreno.

These are just a few of the many celebrities who have come to the Galapagos Islands. So on your next trip, keep an eye on the people at the table next to you: they might be more famous visitors!

Traveling with children is an amazing opportunity for your kids to discover new worlds, learn about foreign cultures, and have out-of-this-world experiences.

But, let’s be honest:  it can be stressful.

Have you ever considered coming to the Galapagos with your kids? The amount of one-of-a-kind wildlife on the islands fascinates travelers of all ages.

But what are some ideas for “Kid-Friendly” cruises?  Let’s take a look at the basics that parents consider priorities:

• Safety

• Entertainment

• Simplicity of travel, and

• Learning opportunities

Safety

Every parent is concerned for their child’s safety at home, and, even more so, away from home!

The most important factor when planning your family cruise is the safety of the vessel:

Does the boat meet with national and international safety standards?

Does the boat have up-to-date emergency and rescue equipment?

Are the sides and balconies of all decks on board child proof, with bars or glass that prohibits falling?

Your travel agent should be able to answer all of the questions above in order to push aside any anxiety.

Safety and security are serious issues, especially on the high seas.  Do not be afraid to ask your agent any questions you may have about safe practices on board.

Entertainment

The Galapagos Islands are a “living laboratory” of land, sea, and sky creatures.

Children will be amazed at the close proximity they will have to all of the animals.  Lying down next to sea lions, swimming with turtles, seeing giant tortoises larger than they are: the idea of getting back to school and showing off photos of volcano hikes, crater swims, dinghy rides, lava tunnel walks and snorkeling with penguins is pretty exciting!

Galapagos cruises generally include two land visits and a snorkeling trip every day. Kids should be comfortable in the water, as well as with snorkel equipment so that they can see the outstanding underwater world below.

Back on board, most ships have DVDs and books about Galapagos, as well as “non-Galapagos” movies and books.  Ships generally also have a collection of board games and cards.

Larger ships offer certain extras, like the EXPLORER II that offers its 100 passengers Spanish, cooking, and towel-folding classes, as well as a glass bottom boat.

Smaller vessels, like the Cormorant and Galaven catamarans with only 16 passengers, can provide personalized dinghy tours, the opportunity of getting to know the captain by name, bridge visits, and 24 hour access to the cookie drawer.

Simplicity of Travel

Many companies offer full packages that include airport pick up (no dragging luggage around behind you while looking for a taxi and unfolding the stroller!), local knowledgeable staff members (no need to haul out the dictionary while fumbling through the diaper bag!), and key tips and pre-trip information to help you and your kids know how things are going to go from the minute you land.Booking with a recognized travel agency who can help you with the ABCs and 123s of traveling to Galapagos is highly recommended.

Learning Opportunities

Galapagos cruises offer daily lectures for passengers with a variety of themes, but this isn’t the only way to learn while on board.

Kids will more likely enjoy learning “hands on”, experiencing the wildlife and geology for themselves, touching different kinds of lava rock, swimming with endemic species, and learning about animals up close.

Have the kids keep a photo or video journal, and log their daily activities in a creative way.

It used to be that those travelers who wanted to see the Galapagos Islands in comfort and style had to book a cruise on a cruise ship or yacht, as Galapagos hotels were overpriced and unimpressive. This is no longer the case.

With tourism services improving in the Galapagos, there are now many fine hotels to choose from on four different islands, and many visitors are choosing to sleep on land and take day trips to visit the fascinating Galapagos visitor sites.

Galapagos Hotels: What you need to know

Not so long ago, there were relatively few hotels in the islands, but the recent tourism boom has led to an increase in hotels, restaurants, travel agents and other visitor services. Now the question is, how do visitors choose the right hotel?

Costs: Hotels in the Galapagos Islands are much pricier than they are in mainland Ecuador. Expect to pay at least double what you would pay for a similar hotel in Quito, Otavalo or elsewhere.

The cheapest of the cheap hotels charges at least $20 per person per night, and the most expensive charge hundreds of dollars per night. There are lots of options in between, so a little homework will help you find the right hotel.

Services and amenities to look for:

• Air Conditioning: The days get very hot in Galapagos; air conditioning is a must during most of the year. Most hotels have it, but not all, and some advertise it but the service is sporadic. The cheapest hotels will often have electric fans as an alternative.

• Internet: The most modern hotels will have Wi-Fi and free internet for guests. Look for this if you use the internet much, because the internet cafes in town are pricey and unreliable.

• Ocean View: A nice thing about Galapagos cruises is the time on the water and the constant view of the ocean. Many hotels, especially the more high-end options, offer ocean view rooms upon request.

Galapagos Towns and their Hotels

There are four towns in Galapagos, and there are lodging options in each of them. Here’s a quick look:

Puerto Ayora – Santa Cruz Island: Not surprisingly, the largest town in Galapagos also has the most options. There are many choices: the most expensive ones are on the waterfront or up in the highlands, while the inexpensive choices are set a couple of dusty streets back from the water. Puerto Ayora is probably the best place to stay, as it’s centrally located, has a number of restaurants, is known for good dive shops, and is close to several visitor sites like Los Gemelos.

Puerto Baquerizo Moreno – San Cristobal Island: The capital and second largest city, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is a bit more laid-back than Puerto Ayora. There are fewer hotels and restaurants and luxury accommodations are limited, but there is still some selection. Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is also close to some good visitor sites and diving.

Puerto Villamil – Isabela Island: Puerto Villamil is a very small town, and lodging options are new. Most of the hotels tend to be either cheap or expensive, and so far there is not a lot of choice in the mid-range.

Puerto Velasco Ibarra – Floreana Island: This town is so tiny its best called a settlement: only a handful of people live there. Here options are limited, but the island is a favorite.